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We started our journey from Pelung in Nyingchi County of Nyingchi Prefecture and followed the most risky route into Medog, a pure and isolated land in the southeastern part of Tibet Autonomous Region.
For more than two weeks in April 1999, we made our way through the winding valleys and virgin forests, avoiding numerous landslides.
Yarlung Zangbo River cuts through the valley, creating the magnificent river bend - the most mysterious and deepest canyon in the world.
We marvelled at the grandness of the canyon and the dazzling variety of green vegetation that no other places in the world can compete with. Our excitement was tempered by the threat of snakes, leeches and mosquitoes.
On the 19th, we reached the boundary of Medog at the 3,230-metre Gobo La Pass, which is generally closed from October to March.
Since it was early spring, the snow on the mountains had mostly melted. Azaleas flourished in the depths of the forest and the singing of birds echoed in the mountains.
Lugu village
The trip soon became very relaxing. Our Tibetan guides taught us a few words of Monba and Tibetan, the languages spoken by the local people in Medog.
We quickly descended to Lugu - the northernmost village of Medog County .
At the entrance to the village, we met a rosy-cheeked teenage boy, who wore an outdated T-shirt and an amulet around his neck. The boy seemed to be shocked at the sight of us. When I gave him some candy, his face blushed. He stared blankly at the candy for a few moments and then took it.
Our visit caused a stir in the village. The locals rushed out curious to see the arrival of our group. Some children who had never seen strangers before hid their faces in their mothers' arms.
We settled down in the village's school. For the first time in more than two weeks, we washed our faces with hot water and had a good rest.
Located on the western bank of the Yarlung Zangbo River, Lugu is home to about 10 Monba families who are mostly farmers. Their two-storey timber houses have few facilities and no electricity. They keep poultry on the first floor and live on the second floor.
I was surprised to find that a kind of wooden tool for rice-husking which I once saw in Zayu County of Nyingchi Prefecture about 12 years ago was still in use in the village.
The men and women in the village all wore a kind of green shirt designed like a military uniform. Early the next morning, we continued our journey towards the town of Medog County, which was still about a four-day walk away.
We travelled along a winding path across the forest, descending from 1,900 metres to 1,200 metres, and reached the bank of the Yarlung Zangbo River.
Roller-coaster ride
An overhead cable system which stretches for 200 metres offers the only way for the locals to cross the river.
The local guides we hired slid along the cable with ease across the river one by one. But for many group members including myself who had no experience, it was quite an adventure.
We all fell into silence and became increasingly nervous waiting for our turn. "It's already scary enough to stand here on the cliff, let alone cross the thundering waves on such a fragile cable," I said to myself.
Finally, I called up all my courage and asked the local guide to fasten me onto the cable.
I suggested that they use more ropes since I am big and heavy and carry a lot of heavy photography equipment.
"Don't worry. It'll be okay," the guide smiled.
Then, everything was ready and the local guide slowly let go of me. I closed my eyes, with my hands tightly clenching the rope. My heart was jumping with fright. I heard the wind whistling and felt myself quickly sliding.
A few seconds later, I became more relaxed. I opened my eyes and found myself half way across the river.
The exhilarating trip came to an end when I finally landed safe and sound on the other side of river.
I sat quietly on the white rock on the river bank, watching my companions crossing the river one after another.
It took about six hours for our group to cross the river.
At about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, we continued our journey again.
Isolated county
After five days of travelling, we finally reached our destination - Medog township.
It was the rainy season and the ground was muddy in the township. The best building in the county is probably the county government's auditorium, which is built of reinforced concrete.
The largest store in the township is run by a Sichuan businessman. There are not many products available, and the prices are sky high. A chicken costs about 100 yuan (US$12), about five times the price it would cost in big cities like Beijing.
The store owner explained that everything in the store was carried into Medog by local labourers from other places.
In Medog, people have to travel on foot whether they are on a long or a short trip. So the most desirable goods for locals are shoes and walking sticks.
There are no middle schools in Medog. Local Monbas can only finish their primary schooling in the county and if possible, they leave their hometown to further their education elsewhere.
During our stay in the township, we were invited to our local guide's home to enjoy the homemade wine.
On the way out
The rainy weather made our journey out of Medog more exhausting. We travelled for four days, passing by Baibung and Laka, and made it to the foot of Dogxong La Pass.
Although the pass was only 4,200 metres high, it was not easy to cross. Within hours of climbing, we experienced varying weather conditions - from the humid and hot sub-tropical weather at an elevation of 1,000 metres to snowy and frigid weather at 4,000 metres.
Dogxong La Pass is snow-capped all year round and open for only four months every year.
Even during the open season, avalanches often take place on the mountain, in particular around noon, when temperatures rise and the snow melts. Therefore locals usually cross the pass before noon.
To avoid avalanches, we set out and headed towards the pass early in the morning.
The climb was breathtaking in more than one sense. Within a couple of hours, I felt the pressure on my lungs intensify with every step. But I could not miss the chance to take photos along the way.
I soon fell far behind my teammates and lost all sight of them. Fortunately, the local guide returned to pick me up.
When reaching the summit of the mountain, I was completely out of breath. Leaning on my walking stick, I tried to take a rest but the wind was so strong that I could hardly stand still.
At around 1 pm, we eventually crossed the pass and stepped out of the isolated land of Medog.
Apart from the wonderful photos I took along the trip, I also brought back a pair of chopsticks our guide gave me. It was made of ebony - the only product made in Medog.
He hoped the gift would remind me of the small and isolated land.
Of course, I will always remember such an unforgettable land and its people for the rest of my life.
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